Pointy Guitar Build Thread

KungFuPro

My plan this summer was to make a neck-thru guitar but I never got round to buying the centre piece, think my previous attempts at making necks put me off the whole project.

Had an itch to build something, so instead got a neck off a BC Rich Beast to play with. Neal Moser would use aftermarket necks for prototypes, we all have to start somewhere (already fret levelled, crowned and polished frets, didn't think of taking pics).


With that headstock figured I'd go with a pointy body to match. Took a BC Rich Bich outline (path tool in photoshop), done away with the large cutaway for a more aesthetically pleasing bottom.

Using parts already prepped for the neck-thru, I sandwiched the birds eye maple fingerboard between 2 pieces of American Black Walnut to make up the body width (Iroko/poplar wings not wide enough for a bolt-on).


Drew the outline onto a piece of plywood and cut with a jigsaw (whole project is just and excuse to play with power tools).


Glued the first wing to the centre piece, using a router to level off the maple fingerboard, slab of wood on top of the wing, plunge depth flush with the wing/walnut.


Second wing glued/clamped, left overnight to set


Fine tuned the ply template, bought a Parkside pillar drill from Lidl earlier this year, not bad for the price.

Got it for drilling neck holes and string-through bridges like on a tele, doubling up as a drum sander is a bonus.

Template sorted, screwed down where the neck/humbucker cavities are (clamped as well).


Started using a forstner bit to remove excess wood, then realised I'd be here all night.

KungFuPro

Change of plans, done a rough cut with a 1/4" bit. I'm using a 1/2" bit for the final cut so this just leaves 6mm~1/4" to remove afterwards. Forstner holes were useful as they are the same size as the router guide, so I could drop in from anywhere for routing.




5mm passes each cut, this router bit isn't long enough to do the whole cut from one side so turned over and cut from back


Rough body shape, looks pretty cool with the black outline. Though about going flat top and black binding for a quick second, but trying to keep things simple.


Middle section is slightly thinner than the wings ~1mm, so I had to sand the top level. I have an electric hand planer but if the doors in my house are anything to go by then it's best left unplugged.


Heard people say you can't get a flat surface with a belt sander, only taking off ~1mm, worked for me using a consistent/mechanical motion. Kept checking with a ruler to make sure I wasn't taking too much off, no sign of light or pivoting in any direction.


Routed whole body again with the 1/2" bit.


Not looking too shabby, quite like the look of the poplar grain now sanded.

KungFuPro

Tidying the sides, had some router tearout, the whole 'downhill/go with the grain' thing goes out the window once I start cutting.


Sanded most of the tooling marks out, contouring the body now so I'll tidy up any marks I missed later


My highly advanced contour marker, just so I don't go overboard shaping the curves.


Used a flap wheel to take off excess wood (needed on the iroko), shaped with a file, rough sanded for now


On a whim I thought arches on the bottom horns would add to the handmade look, thinking of cone shaped 'devil horns' for the top ones. Lots more work now, in hindsight I think a flat top with binding would've been less time consuming.


Saying that, I enjoy the contouring part. Takes more effort shaping by hand but rewarding when it stops looking blocklike.


Same shaping on top, poplar is easy to work with, similar to ash or basswood, no need for the flap wheel to get going. Iroko (African teak) on the other hand is hard as rock, blunted (not in the good way) my 1/2" bit when routing so I need to buy a new one before routing cavities


Middle arch shaped, quite tricky keeping everything symmetrical but got there in the end


This is where I'm up to, bottom horns shaped and rough sanded, all 6 feet are level, no rocking (yet!) or beer mats needed for it to stand upright.


Plan on routing the neck pocket next and getting the bridge screwed into place to align everything, that's the important part.

Chuffed with how it's turning out so far, I'll update as I do it from now on, thanks for viewing.

hyperfish

I'm liking that a lot, particularly the contrasting centre block and those curves.

KungFuPro

Got a bit more done over the weekend, started on the cavities, already have a humbucker template made but not one for the neck. Drew around the heel onto a piece of ply, drilled holes for start/end points and routed along a straight edge for the lines, then tidied with a file.

Made the template 1/4" larger all round to accommodate the router guide, surprisingly accurate when cut. Only 3-4mm deep on the test piece and the neck held in place without support.


Made the neck pocket 16mm deep leaving about 2-3mm above the body, not including fretboard. I left excess wood around the lower horn (when cutting the outline) as I wasn't sure if I was going with an AANJ or neckplate. Plus, it's easier to take off wood than make it reappear. I've opted for an asymmetric 'deluxe neck plate' so I'll tidy it when I shape the heel.


Yeah, my humbucker template looks a bit rough but does a neat job. Should've sharpened router bits before starting this project as I'm getting quite a lot of burn marks, think they're too far gone (chipped) so I've ordered new 1/4" and 1/2" bits.


Quick setup, neck fits well, can see the extra wood around the lower horn which I am going to take off next. Had planned on using a hardtail bridge but the pillar can't reach the string-through holes. I have a 2-point trem that I might use instead, will leave that for now.


Tidied the side of the neck pocket and began shaping the heel.

Drew around the deluxe style neck plate for a guideline. Took most off with a sanding disc wheel, filed and rough sanded, shaped lower horn while I was at it.

Going to finish shaping the body before installing the bridge now.

Warlock

Looking good - I used to have a Bich with the older headstock from 2001 or so; the different colours/layers in the wood on your version really look great!

KungFuPro

Cheers, I have a soft spot for BC Richs, owned a few over the years, currently have a 90s Korean Warlock, an '84 Japanese Eagle and a Wrath I built last year.


Keep meaning to paint or dye the Wrath but sanding off the clear coat will be a chore. Going to dye the Bich red or blue so I might do the Wrath at the same time and get it out of the way.

New router bits turned up, didn't realise how knackered the old ones were, like when you've had guitar strings on too long and only notice when you change them. So much easier with sharp blades, going to try and take better care of my bits from now on.

Done the last of the routing, used a controls template I made for Wrath build. Large enough for 2 pots, 3 way switch and a mini toggle switch for coil-splitting, recessed for a cover.


Also had a go at making a guide for the bridge string-through holes. Drilled a piece of walnut using pillar drill, hand drilled as far as I could into a test piece, the removed guide to finish.


End result, not perfect but better than I could do freehand. Might've been the guide as I didn't clamp anything when drilling. Don't want to spend too much time on this build so might just go ahead with wonky string holes, need to buy some string ferrules first.

Warlock

Nice! I still have my 2004-ish NJ Warlock.  I quite fancy a BC Rich bass but I hear mixed things. :/

hyperfish

Nice crisp edges to that cavity with the new bit.

I don't see a channel for the PU wires, you opted to drill?

KelvinS1965

I really admire the effort of making a guitar from bare wood and it's really looking great now. I'd be happy to assemble a 'Partscaster' myself, but creating the body and neck would be a step too far for me.

A question re the pickup route; how does the router follow the wooden template without cutting into it? Is there a sort of 'wheel' round the router? I want to open out the single coil route in a cheap Telecaster I have, so I can fit a 'dog ear' P90 pickup and I figure it would be better to follow your method rather than my initial thought of doing it by hand with my router. Having said that the route will be completely hidden by my pickguard, so no the end of the world if it doesn't look as neat as yours.

Looking forward to seeing the finished article.